Historic Istanbul Bakery Preserves Traditions with Ramadan Pide
As the holy month of Ramadan approaches, the historic bakery located on Mevlevihane Street in Zeytinburnu, Merkezefendi Mahallesi, is bustling with activity to prepare the traditional Ramadan pide. Dating back to the 19th century, this bakery uses a unique combination of flour, water, and a 130-year-old yeast to craft the iconic Ramadan bread that graces iftar and sahur tables.
Restoration and Revival After a Devastating Fire
After a devastating fire in 2022 left the historic Merkezefendi Bakery in ruins, the Zeytinburnu Municipality took charge of the restoration efforts. By 2023, the bakery was meticulously restored to its original glory and re-opened its doors to the public. Just in time for Ramadan, the historic bakery kicked off its pide-making tradition once again.
The Art of Pide-Making in a Stone Oven
According to the bakery’s head chef, Umut Bayram, the key to crafting the perfect pide lies in baking it in a stone oven. “We will be baking our pides in the stone oven dating back to the 19th century. We will be making two types of pide: plain and with eggs. Right now, our dough is being kneaded inside. After the dough has rested, we will bake our pides here in the oven. Our pides will take their place on the iftar tables in the evening. If you want a good pide, it absolutely has to be baked in a stone oven. The ingredients and the craftsmanship have to be of high quality to adorn our tables. When I first started working here, the masters used to keep their techniques secret from us. It was rare for them to explain or show us,” Bayram shared.
Empowering the Community Through Education
Chef Bayram also mentioned that they provide training to students who visit the bakery. “When it comes to the nuances of dough, they would send us elsewhere. I had a dream back then. I had a dream back then. I said to myself that once I become a good master, I will try to teach this craft not only to my employees but also to the public. We provide education to people here. We asked our Mayor, Ömer Arısoy, for help, and they supported us. This training is not only for employees but for all residents of Zeytinburnu. We even offer a certificate approved by the Ministry of National Education,” he explained.
Resurrection Through Renovation
Reflecting on the bakery’s journey post-fire, Chef Bayram highlighted, “We operate in a traditional manner. If you make a thousand loaves today, tomorrow you might make twelve hundred or thirteen hundred. In the early days, it’s all about trial and error. We do it to meet supply and demand. There is a noticeable difference with stone ovens compared to electric ovens in terms of heat distribution. There’s no such issue with stone ovens. This bakery is from the 19th century. There was a fire here. The bakery went through renovations and rose from the ashes. Our Mayor and his team rebuilt the bakery, and it reopened to serve the public.”
Preserving Tradition with a 130-Year-Old Yeast
Chef Bayram proudly shared, “We make our pides with a 130-year-old sourdough yeast. We have a sourdough yeast that has been rejuvenated and nourished every day for 130 years. We never give this yeast to anyone outside. We gift this yeast to the students who are learning alongside me here. With our 130-year-old yeast, we craft our pides.”
With a rich history, meticulous craftsmanship, and a commitment to community education, the historic Merkezefendi Bakery stands as a beacon of tradition, resilience, and culinary excellence in Istanbul.
